Cress Help - Wind waves and swell - Basics of waves - A5.1

Dispersion relations

The calculation rule determines the velocities, wavelengths, wave periods, water depths, velocity of wave propagation, wave train velocities, potential energy, kinetic energy, capacity, pressure, and wave damping cause by bottom friction and the Ursell-number for standing and running waves.

Dispersion relation (free gravity waves):

     equation 1